SICHUAN BASIN TO TIBETAN PLATEAU: THE FIELD NOTES

COUNTDOWN TO DEPARTURE:

THE ROOFTOP OF THE WORLD

The Sanjiangyuan National Park

The ultimate destination of our overland journey is Sanjiangyuan National Park. Meaning “Source of Three Rivers,” the name refers to the vast area of the Tibetan Plateau in Qinghai province that contains the headwaters of Asia’s three great rivers: the Yellow, the Yangtze, and the Mekong. It is, quite literally, the “water tower” of Asia.

Established in 2021 to protect the fragile alpine ecosystem, the park spans a massive 47 million acres—larger than the entire state of Florida. Here, dramatic mountains loom above glaciers, and the terrain is defined by high-altitude rolling steppes, limestone karst formations, and some of the highest peaks on Earth.

This is the ultimate wilderness, yet it is not empty. It is home to Tibetan nomads who have grazed their herds here for thousands of years. The park’s philosophy is unique: it aims to blend modern conservation with the traditional lifestyle of local communities.

The park is divided into different “zones,” keeping some areas for core conservation and restoration, while others are “traditional utilization” zones where local herders can continue their  traditional living and grazing practices. And most importantly, herders have been empowered as “nomad-rangers,” using their deep traditional knowledge to protect the environment and wildlife.

During this expedition, I hope to document how this unique arrangement works and explore the relationship between these nomad-rangers and the elusive Snow Leopard. The journey to Sanjiangyuan will shed new light on the delicate balance between man, wildlife, and the living earth.

LESSONS FROM SANJIANGYUAN

As part of my preparations for this expedition, I’ve been studying the management model of the Sanjiangyuan national park. It is a vital example of how large-scale biodiversity protection can be achieved in remote, inhabited areas.

The Sanjiangyuan model represents a shift from “fortress conservation” to community-based stewardship. The park authorities have recognized that the local Tibetan nomads are not a threat to the ecosystem, but its essential guardians. By integrating the nomads into the park’s management–hiring them as rangers, investing in local sustainable tourism, and valuing their ecological knowledge–the park creates a model that is both ecologically effective and socially equitable.

The nomad-rangers are able to blend traditional knowledge with modern conservation. They  patrol high-altitude areas on motorcycles or horseback, monitoring species like Tibetan antelopes, and managing grazing lands. Their work has been crucial in reducing poaching of endangered species like the Tibetan antelope. And recent studies suggest that traditional nomadic grazing practices, protected by these rangers, are more sustainable for the land.

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