DELAWARE

Delaware

Around Deleware

Delaware is often part of our favorite north-south coastal route that explores the barrier islands of the Atlantic coast. While it is the second smallest state in the US, it has some interesting spots for enjoying the outdoors beyond just “the beach.”

Overview: Delaware “tourism” is primarily focused on summer beach destinations along the Atlantic coast and the resort towns of Rehoboth Beach, Lewes, Dewey Beach, Bethany Beach, South Bethany, and Fenwick Island. And while the state does not really have any “off road” destinations or even simple dirt roads, it does have some interesting paved routes to explore different regions. You can check out the various “Scenic Byways” on this official site. Beyond these “byways” there are also some really great places to go exploring on public lands, particularly along the Atlantic coast and in the more rural southern part of the state.

Delaware Bay
Swampland
Barrier Isles

TOPOGRAPHY: Delaware is 96 miles long and ranges from 9 miles to 35 miles across, with a land area of just 1,982 square miles. Delaware, together with the Eastern Shore counties of Maryland and two counties of Virginia, form the Delmarva Peninsula, which stretches down the Mid-Atlantic Coast. Delaware is on a level plain, with the lowest mean elevation of any state in the nation. Its highest elevation, located at Ebright Azimuth, is less than 450 feet above sea level. The northernmost part of the state is part of the Piedmont Plateau with hills and rolling surfaces. The Atlantic Seaboard fall line approximately follows the Robert Kirkwood Highway between Newark and Wilmington; south of this road is the Atlantic Coastal Plain with flat, sandy, and, in some parts, swampy ground. A ridge about 75 to 80 feet high extends along the western boundary of the state and separates the watersheds that feed Delaware River and Bay to the east and the Chesapeake Bay to the west.

HISTORY: Before Delaware was settled by European colonists, this land was home to the Eastern Algonquian tribes known as the Unami Lenape, or Delaware, who lived mostly along the coast, and the Nanticoke who occupied much of the southern Delmarva Peninsula. These indigenous peoples had a settled hunting and agricultural society. In 1631 Dutch traders established the first colonial presence at at Zwaanendael, near present-day Lewes. The Lenape soon became middlemen in an increasingly frantic fur trade before being pushed off their lands on the Delaware River by the mid-18th century. Colonial Delaware was a largely agricultural region, producing tobacco with plantation-style cultivation based on slave labor, similar to the system in southern states. By the early 1800’s industrialization began to transform parts of the states into a manufacturing center, and by 1810 two-thirds of Delaware’s slaves had been freed. Delaware’s history as a “border” state between north and south, has led it to exhibit characteristics of both regions. Generally, the rural Southern regions of Delaware below the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal embody a Southern culture, while densely-populated Northern Delaware above the canal is more urban and has more in common with the Northeast. Native American communities that maintain a strong presence in Delaware are the Lenape, which is today headquartered in Cheswold, and a band of the Nanticoke tribe that resides in Sussex County.

Delaware Bay

The Delaware Bay area we are most interested in is the lower section which features a wilder, less developed landscape defined by wetlands and a few small towns. Lewes, one of the first towns to be established in the state, has a quaint historic district and is the Delaware terminal for the Cape May-Lewes Ferry that links it to New Jersey and one of our favorite coastal north-south routes. The maritime heritage of Lewes gives it a unique character, with a blend of architectural styles that spans almost four centuries.

From Lewes we have two different “slow road” options to explore further south. One will follow the Atlantic Coast along the sandy beaches of a series of barrier islands, the other goes into the interior where the remains of the Great Cypress Swamp beckon.

But right along the Bay near Lewes there are a few great locations to discover and experience both the wetlands marshes of the bay and the sandy beaches of the Atlantic coast. And there’s some interesting military history, too.

The short, 12.5 mile “Historic Lewes Byway,” links these locations and captures the 378-year history of the “First Town in the First State of the United States of America”.  Located at the mouth of the Delaware Bay, with a good harbor and lighthouses, Lewes was the perfect spot for a major shipping channel, for rescuing passengers and crews of foundering ships, and for defending the Delaware Bay and adjacent communities.

ABOUT THE LANDSCAPE

Delaware Bay, between the states of Delaware and New Jersey, is the estuary outlet of the Delaware River. The bay’s freshwater mixes with the saltwater of the Atlantic Ocean over an area of  approximately 782 square miles. It’s shores are largely composed of salt marshes and mudflats, with only small communities inhabiting the lower bay.

The bay is one of the most important navigational channels in the United States; it is the second busiest waterway after the Mississippi River. Its lower course forms part of the Intracoastal Waterway. The need for direct navigation around the two capes into the ocean is circumvented by the Cape May Canal and the Lewes and Rehoboth Canal at the north and south capes respectively. The upper bay is connected directly to the north end of Chesapeake Bay by the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal.

The protected salt marsh wetlands bordering the bay, serve as a breeding ground for many aquatic species, including oysters and horseshoe crabs (Delaware Bay hosts the largest population of horseshoe crabs in the world).

Rising Sea Levels

(Check out some fast facts)

The landscapes of the Delaware Bay area are in a constant state of transition due to rising sea levels. Over the past 100 years the sea level has risen 13 inches. The protected habitats of the Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge are increasingly threatened.

Over the past 85 years, about 500 feet of beach front at Prime Hook have been lost. Experts predict global sea levels will continue to rise anywhere from one to three meters over the next century. Moreover, increasing frequency and intensity of storm events is causing additional flooding and erosion.

The Refuge has worked with researchers to determine the best course of action to protect the wildlife habitats at Prime Hook. Rebuilding the dune line, while critically important, is not enough. Rather, a careful and detailed marsh restoration plan, which rebuilds a resilient mix of salt, brackish, and some freshwater marsh, is a sustainable option to help Prime Hook adapt to the realities of sea-level rise and climate change.

Lewes Ferry

HIGHLIGHTS: Vehicle
Ferry to Cape May NJ,
scenic views

Prime Hook NWR

HIGHLIGHTS: Wildlife
viewing, Hiking
, Paddling

Cape Henlopen State Park

HIGHLIGHTS: Beaches,
Dunes, Historic
lighthouse, Hiking

Fort Miles Historic Area

HIGHLIGHTS: Historic
structures, Military
history

Motorized Access

Paved roads only.

Camping

Camping at campgrounds only (no dispersed camping). Good camping opportunities at Cape Henlopen.

Important Notes

Gas, food and water are all easily accessible.

Swamplands

The inland portion of southern Delaware is a mosaic of cultivated farmland and forested wetlands. Much of this area was once covered by the Great Cypress Swamp which stretched over 50,000-plus acres. Historically swamps were considered wastelands whose best use could only be attained through “reclamation projects” and many interior wetlands like the Great Cypress Swamp were destroyed through actions such as drainage for agriculture and filling in for industrial or residential development. Today there are only a few places left here where it’s possible to get a sense of what that primal swamp environment was like.

Heading inland from the coast our first stop includes a search for the “remains” of the Great Cypress Swamp before heading to Trap Pond State Park where the solitude and natural beauty of the ethereal swamp experience has been preserved. Continuing west towards Maryland, its fun to take a historic ferry across the Nanticoke River.

The Delaware swamplands have an interesting history. Over centuries as groundwater flowed through the swamps and streams, plants and bacteria oxidized soluble iron compounds in the water solid mineral deposits, high in iron, were left behind. These accumulated layers of “bog iron” were discovered as European settlers moved into this area in the mid-1700s. The settlers began to “mine” and process the iron deposits, using the power of flowing streams for bellows, and the vast stands of timber for charcoal  to fuel furnaces and forges. The iron industry continued until the time of the American Revolution when British blockades of the Chesapeake Bay effectively shut down it down. However, the lumbering continued as settlement increased. Soon small streams were dammed, both for powering sawmills and as transportation ponds for floating logs out of the swamps. The Baldcypress swamps and stands of Atlantic White Cedar were sought-after because both trees provided lumber that was insect and rot-resistant.

As the forests were cut down, agriculture slowly took over as the main economic activity in the region.

 

ABOUT THE LANDCAPE

Swamps are non-tidal wetlands that are dominated by woody shrubs or trees. They have saturated soils or standing water during certain times of year, which creates a unique environment that only particular plants can survive. Swamps serve vital roles in flood protection and help to clean our waters. There are many different types of swamps. In Delaware, two examples are Atlantic white cedar and bald cypress swamps.

Atlantic white cedar swamps occur in poorly-drained, acidic, highly-organic soils, either along river floodplains, or in the headwaters of mill ponds. They feature a white cedar tree canopy with deciduous (typically maple/gum) trees mixed in. A unique community of sphagnum moss and carnivorous plants occupy the forest floor.

Bald cypress swamps in Delaware are the northernmost natural examples of these areas in the United States, and thus comprise a unique ecosystem to this region. Easily distinguished by the presence of the deciduous, knobby-kneed cypress trees, these swamps can be found within forested floodplains of some southern Delaware rivers and creeks.

 

Delaware Swamps

(Check out some fast facts)

Prior to extensive timbering and drainage during the 1800s and 1900s, white cedar swamps were abundant in Delaware, including hundreds of acres within the Great Cypress Swamp. Though now scarce in Delaware, cedar swamps provide important habitat for certain species such as sundews, pitcher plants, dragonflies, and salamanders, which can be found in few other places throughout the state.

Bald cypress trees were also heavily timbered during the 1700s and 1800s for their rot-resistant wood, which was used for building things like ships and roof shingles. Additionally, removing these trees gave access to the nutrient-rich soils in which they grow that were sought after for agriculture. Today, many of these swamps are on state- or non-profit-owned property and are being maintained or restored. However, these wetlands are sensitive and easily disturbed by adjacent land use activities.

Great Cypress Swamp

HIGHLIGHTS: Historic
swampland, Conservation/
Restoration site

Trap Pond State Park

HIGHLIGHTS: Hiking,
Camping, Paddling
,
Swamp education center

The Woodland Ferry

HIGHLIGHTS: Historic
cable ferry

Motorized Access

Paved roads only.

Camping

Camping in campgrounds only. (No dispersed camping). Good camping at Trap Pond.

Important Notes

Gas, food and water are all easily accessible.

The Barrier Islands

Taking the coastal route south isn’t the best plan in summertime when the beaches are crowded and Delaware’s Route 1 is one long traffic jam, but in the off-season this is a great area for exploration of the barrier island landscapes.

Running for roughly 103 miles, Delaware Route 1 (DE 1) is the longest highway in the state, and it takes us through the chain of barrier islands that begin with Cape Henlopen near Lewes and continue south to Fenwick Island near the Maryland border and extending all the way down through Assateague Island to the mouth of Chesapeake Bay.

The coastal beach towns have different characters, with some like Bethany Beach and South Bethany more quiet while others like Dewey Beach and Rehoboth Beach are known for their cosmopolitan bustle. However, during the off-season, these differences matter less, and it’s easier to experience the wilderness areas and even enjoy some solitude along the Atlantic shores. 

Wandering quiet beaches and maze-like back bay trails it is easy to imagine the time when this part of the Delaware coast provided a refuge for pirates. One local legend said pirates buried treasure on Cedar Island in Little Assawoman Bay. Too bad Cedar Island has almost washed under the bay (the same thing happened to Seal Island in 2010).

ABOUT THE LANDSCAPE

The Delmarva Peninsula includes the vast majority of the state of Delaware and parts of the Eastern Shore regions of Maryland and Virginia. The peninsula is 170 miles long. In width, it ranges from 70 miles near its center, to 12 miles at the isthmus on its northern edge. The entire Delmarva Peninsula falls within the Atlantic Coastal Plain, a flat and sandy area with very few or no hills; the highest point in the peninsula is only 102 ft above sea level.

Delmarva’s barrier island system begins in Delaware and researchers have noted that shorelines are retreating towards the mainland at an increasingly rapid rate. The islands are becoming smaller and thinner while the inlets and back-bay areas are becoming bigger. Rising sea levels contribute to this island shrinking, but storms are also a factor. Barrier islands are frequently exposed to hurricanes and tropical storms, when widespread washover can alter the shoreline position drastically. 

Barrier Islands

(Check out some fast facts)

Along much of the East Coast, long stretches of thin, sandy islands provide a buffer from surging waters during storms and help protect the mainland.

Barrier islands form when waves and wind push sand into mounds that gradually enlarge into dunes and then islands, with tides and currents bringing in water at certain spots to create inlets. Changes to any part of this delicately balanced system can re-form an island’s shape and location, as well as the surrounding bays and lagoons. In fact, East Coast barrier islands were once much farther out to sea near the edge of the continental shelf and have moved landward as water levels crept higher.

Fenwick Island State Park

HIGHLIGHTS: Beaches,
Kayaking, Hiking

Assawoman Bay Wildlife Area

HIGHLIGHTS: Wildlife, Observation tower, Kayaking

Motorized Access

Paved Roads only

Camping

Camping at campgrounds only (no dispersed camping)

Important Notes

Gas, food and water are all easily accessible.

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